Monday 17 June 2019

Rye

The little town of Rye in East Sussex is both charming and picturesque and we have wanted to take a look around its narrow streets, for some time. So on Tuesday, after our walk along the coast at Rye Harbour, we walked the two miles into the town for a good scout around. We were not disappointed. The walk in, gave us some nice views across the salt marshes towards the town, sitting on its promontory. The skyline is dominated by the tower of St. Mary's Church.
Getting away from the roads and into the town itself, the first building we saw was 'Oak Corner' rebuilt, as the sign above the door reads, in 1490.
One of the main reasons for our visit, was to take a look at some of the places made famous by the wonderful E. F. Benson. Benson lived at Lamb House in the town from 1918 until his death in 1940 and was responsible for the 'Mapp and Lucia' series of books, set in 'Tilling', which was based on Rye. The Channel 4 series of the mid 1980's was filmed in the town and is a great favourite of ours too. The Hotel known as The Mermaid, features in the series as the 'Trader's Arms.'
St. Mary's Church is of course, the haunt of 'The Padre'.
The east end of the church features in three weddings and is the scene of much bitching between the two ladies of the title.
Close by, one of the oldest buildings in Rye, is Ypres Tower. Built in 1249 to keep the French out. This also features a few times in various scenes from the series.
Just around the corner, on Church Square, we found the house used as Major Benjy's home - before he married Miss Elizabeth Mapp.
Along Watchbell Street, we came to Fleetwood Cottage - renamed Mallard's Cottage for the series, and the home of Georgie Pilson (before he married Emmeline 'Lucia' Lucas). Sadly, there are always cars in the way!
Opposite the cottage, the much grander building of Mallard's House itself (properly known as Swan House).
In the books and the TV series, 'Mallard's' was the home of Elizabeth Mapp and later, Major Benjy. But following some ill-informed financial dealings, she was forced to sell and it became the property of Lucia - and later of course, Georgie Pilson.
Malcolm and I had a wonderful time wandering around the old streets of Tilling - sorry, Rye! But soon we had to start heading back.
If you've never read the Mapp and Lucia books by E. F. Benson, or seen the original Channel 4 series, I urge you to do so with all haste. You will not be disappointed!

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