Tuesday, 17 May 2011

Flowers

We were expecting to see the island of Madeira, covered with flowers.  Indeed anyone you speak to seems to have the same opinion, that it is the 'garden of the Atlantic' and flowers abound.  But, although there were a lot of flowers to be seen, it was not the floral explosion we had been led to expect.  Having said that, the flowers we did see, were both exotic and impressive.  Here, a pink Bottle Brush plant was attracting a lot of attention from the bees.
In the many municipal parks around Funchal, a common plant was the Canna Lily (not a true lily), also called Indian Shot.  That name comes from the seeds being hard and round enough to have been used as rifle shot in the many Indian campaigns, when more conventional bullets were running out.
The genus of plants known as Erythrina is wide and varied.  Belonging to the Pea family, they encompass all sorts of different flower shapes.  From these large trees bearing 'fluffy' flowers, called Erythrina abyssinica, from Africa...
... To the, more Pea-shaped flowers of the Erythrina crista-galli, a smaller tree from South America.
and to the medium-sized tree with flowers like a red-hot Poker and leaves like a Poinsettia, called Erythina speciosa, from Brazil.
The streets too were lined with the fragrant Jacaranda trees, also from South America, which dropped their bright blue flowers all over the roads and paths.  Beautiful!

Monday, 16 May 2011

Last of Monte

Leaving the church behind, we walked around the side and through the gardens to look over the village square.  Beautifully situated with views over the valley and sweeping down to Funchal.
Cool and shady under the trees, there was another shrine set into the side of the cliff to our Lady of Monte and a spring issuing water, lit by candles.
Time to start heading back down the hill.  But first, there was time to walk through the gardens and admire the  greenery and the flowers.
Bridges and walls crossed the valley, seemingly holding up the village above.
Out of the trees and off down the streets again for our 4 mile trudge home.  Easier going downhill, but harder on the knees and feet.  By the way, I'm told by Malcolm that the priest I referred to yesterday, was not singing the German National Anthem, but a well-known hymn (in German) with the same tune.  So it would seem that  Deutschland was not über alles after all.

Sunday, 15 May 2011

Monte again

Arriving puffing and panting finally at the little village of Monte, we made straight for the nearest coffee shop and had a well-earned rest and a caffeine hit.  The Church of Our Lady of Monte sits atop this hill, facing out over the countryside about 1,700ft below.  But, there was still a climb to be made before we got to it... The steps seemed to be the 'icing on the cake' after the climb up the hill, but up we went.
The present church was rebuilt after an earthquake had demolished the old building in December 1818 and was re-consecrated to the original patron saint whose veneration dates back to the 15th century.  It is a well-used church at all times, but particularly on 15th August, the feast of the Assumption.  It was in use the day we were there too.
Beautifully decorated inside, as many catholic churches are, the chandeliers were particularly impressive as the priest conducted a mass in German which for some reason, required him singing the German National Anthem in a rather flat and unmusical tone.  At least there was plenty to look at while he 'warbled'.  I took the pictures by the way, from the porch and without flash, so as not to disturb those inside - which by this time included Malcolm.
Leaving this rich sight behind, we turned and enjoyed the extensive views before looking round the village square and gardens.  More of them next time.

Saturday, 14 May 2011

Monte

On the Wednesday of our holiday, we thought we would take a walk up to the town of Monte.  We had been told, by a local Rep' that it was not possible to walk as it was too steep a climb up the roads.  But, not to be deterred, we set out.  It soon became clear that it was to be quite a slog.  It was about 4 miles up the hill and it got steeper and steeper as we climbed.  The views were good...

... and they got better the higher we climbed.  As we neared Monte, we were being approached by taxi drivers offering to take us in their taxis, explaining that it was still good way to climb.  Some of them looked concerned, making me think we must have looked about ready to expire.  Still the views got better...
Closer still to Monte and we not only had to struggle against the incline, but we also had to keep stopping and pressing ourselves against the walls, to avoid the famous 'sledges' which give mad tourists a white-knuckle ride down the hill on upholstered, wicker baskets, steered by white-trousered men sporting straw boaters, scars and cauliflower ears!
The sledges, travelling at frightening speed on wooden runners down the roads seemed to be out of control despite the best efforts of the 'drivers' and the smell of burning wood hung in the air.  It was popular with some of the tourists, but not with us.  Stopping for the sledges to pass, gave us more chance to take in the view.  Malcolm seemed impressed as we looked down on Funchal...
More from Monte tomorrow, as we have to catch our breath first....

Thursday, 12 May 2011

Promenade

Along the coast, west from our apartment, there was a beautiful promenade.  Paved and planted with exotic flowers, it gave us some great views across the sea and the town.  Everywhere, banana plantations were growing, indeed there was hardly a single garden which didn't have at least a couple of banana plants.  This plantation had hundreds of them.
Further along, we had great views across the old fishing village of Camara de Lobos to the vertical cliffs of Cabo Girao, 1,900ft of sheer face.
The sea is so blue along here but there are no sandy beaches, so artificial lidos have been constructed along the coast.  Nice to look at, but probably very hard to lie on.
The whole way was planted with trees and shrubs of varying types, some flowering, some not, but all beautiful.
Turning back toward 'home', we got a good view of the tiny island of Ilheu de Gorgulho, with the backdrop of three much larger, deserted islands on the horizon which make up the Ilhas Desertas some 11 miles away.

Wednesday, 11 May 2011

Funchal again

Landing at Funchal airport turned out to be rather more hair-raising than we had expected - or hoped.  It was recently said to be among the top ten most dangerous airports (not what you want to read days before going there) and it was easy to see where this reputation comes from.
The approach was from the south-west which meant a tight turn within the confines of the bay, trying not to get too close to the hills.  Then came the buffeting from winds funneling down the many valleys on the side of the mountain.  We were just about to touch down when a large gust blew us to one side and the pilot had to quickly put on full throttle to take us back up steeply and bank around again for a second try.  By this time the whole cabin was quiet!  Thankfully, we made it at the second attempt and a spontaneous round of applause broke out for the pilot.  Here, the picture doesn't quite reveal how close the hill on the far side of the airport is, to the runway.  Click on the picture for full size...
When we were down and all three sets of wheels were on the deck, we were still being thrown about by the cross winds as we taxied along to the new bit of runway which, alarmingly juts out over the sea.
Still, at least they give you some nice flowers to look at while gathering what's left of your nerves together and getting off the plane looking forward to taking off again at the end of your holiday!  No wonder they only let the most experienced pilots fly into Funchal.

Tuesday, 10 May 2011

Funchal

Back home again yesterday evening, from our trip to Madeira.  Neither Malcolm nor I had ever been to Madeira before and we were both impressed by our stay.  If there were to be any criticism, it would be the traffic in the main town and resort of Funchal.  It was so busy, but the views of the surrounding island, made up for that.  There will be many pictures from our holiday over the next few days, but for now, here are a couple to be going on with.  Firstly, the view from our 10th floor balcony, one of the best we've ever had on our holidays, with views over mountain and sea.
Our first walk into town on the afternoon we arrived, revealed streets lined with Jacaranda trees.  Here, seen around the area of the very posh Reid's Palace Hotel.
They seem to like their statues in Funchal and there is hardly a street corner which isn't adorned with some sort of monument.  Many seem to be of women with their 'bits and pieces' on display.  I hope they have a good, high-factor sun cream on as there are some parts where the last thing you want is a blister!
More to come...